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Unboxed, Weighed & Installed: SRAM Force CX1 Cyclocross Group & Hydraulic Disc Brakes

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2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

SRAM’s Force CX1 group with hydraulic disc brakes had no sooner showed up then we threw it on the scale, installed and took it to a very muddy race at Pisgah Brewing near Asheville, NC.

Introduced in March, the group just started aftermarket shipping en masse around August, with hydraulic brake versions following in September. For those upgrading their current rig, it meant a nick-of-time delivery before the season gets too far underway. Fortunately, installation is pretty straightforward, even if you have to run hydraulic disc brakes through a frame. Heck, even if you don’t, they ship with very long hoses, so chances are high you’ll need to at least trim the length and re-bleed them.

Here’s the run down of individual component weights, including a comparison to the mechanical brake counterparts, and install notes…

SRAM CX1 ACTUAL WEIGHTS

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

The CX1 group relies heavily on existing Force 22 components, and most are still branded as such. The Force crank arms are paired with a 110BCD spider ready for the CX1 chainring. In fact, all you need to add to make your bike a SRAM 1x is the X-Sync chainring. SRAM also recommends adding the X-Horizon CX1 rear derailleur, too, along with a fresh chain, but either will work with both 10- and 11-speed setups.

A 175mm long BB30 crankset with spider comes in at 512g. The included chainring bolts are 14g.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

The chainrings are available in 38/40/42/44/46 tooth counts, all using their narrow/wide tooth pattern. We received the 38/40/42, which are weighed left to right at 71g/81g/81g respectively.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

The rest of the drivetrain parts come in at 261g for the rear derailleur, 302g for a PG1170 11-32 WiFLi 11-speed cassette and 247g for the chain. I removed about six links from the chain for my install.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

The 140mm Centerline rotors come in at 89g and the 160mm rotors are 114g.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

Lastly, we have the levers. The left brake lever comes without a shift paddle and internals. With a full length front brake hose and brake caliper it’s 312g. The right/rear does have the shift guts and paddle and comes with the cable preinstalled. It registers at 383g, but again, you’ll almost certainly need to trim the hose length on both.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

For comparison, the mechanical brake levers come in at 175g (rear) and 117g (front), and the BB7 SL calipers come in at 202g. You’ll need to add cable housing to the weights to get a fair representation, but you’ll come in lighter with the hydraulic disc brakes by a bit. And have much better braking.

INSTALL NOTES & PRODUCT DETAILS

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

I installed the group on my Moots Psychlo-X RSL, which has closed loops for the brake hose along the top tube. This required disconnecting the rear caliper from the hose even if the length had been OK, so both front and rear brakes were bled using Avid’s standard bleed kit. Couple of notes here:

  • Unless you’ve got time to kill and want to buy the bleed kit separately, pay a shop to do this.
  • If you do bleed them yourself, pony up for Avid’s PRO bleed kit, it’s world’s better than the standard one.
  • Give yourself at least an hour so you’re not rushed, longer if you’ve got to snake the hose inside your frame.
  • Make sure you have a hose cutter.
  • Push the hose down into the caliper with a good bit of force while threading it back in, otherwise the olive and barb won’t seat right and it’ll just pull right back out.
  • Have an internet connected screen handy and queue up SRAM’s bleed video. It walks you through the process very easily. If you prefer printed instructions, here’s the PDF manual.

There are a number of ways to get hoses through internally routed handlebars and frames, and we’ve touched on SRAM’s basic Hydro-R install here. We’ve got a much more in depth install and bleed overview coming in a Red 22 install post.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

The crankset comes with five chainring bolts. Four are standard, one is for the hidden bolt behind the crankarm.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

It’s easiest if you install the hidden bolt first while the chainring is loose. That lets you trap the nut between the ring and arm while you thread the bolt into place. If you do the other bolts first, you’ll have a gap (shown on right) and you’ll need to jam something in there to hold the nut in place while you insert the bolt.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

Beyond that, installation is very straight forward. Like with XX1, you simply wrap the chain around the largest cog and the chainring, then add four links to get the recommended chain length. I erred on making it ever so slightly longer since I was starting with the 38t chainring and their widest range cassette but wanted it to also work with the 40 and 42 they sent.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

The chainring teeth are very tall, which helps keep the chain from bouncing off.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

The Force CX1 derailleur has their Cage Lock to hold the pulley cage in the extended position for easier install and wheel changes.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

The cassette is mostly individual cogs with separate spacer rings – it’s a lot of little parts.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

Yes, the hoods are huge, but the overall shape is comfy. The rubber covers have an unfortunate tendency to flare out. As soon as I push them back in flush, they’re right back out again. They have independent reach adjust for both brake and shift levers. During the bleed process, brake fluid can drip down along the edge of the cover, so be sure to pull it all the way back and wipe clean with isopropyl alcohol before putting it all back together.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

The brakes are easy to get centered over the rotor and have been very quiet so far. Compared to the first generation rotors, the new Centerline models are much quieter and smoother.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

They’re the same calipers as for road bikes, hence the Force branding.

2015 SRAM CX1 1x11 cyclocross component group with hydraulic disc brakes install notes and actual weights

Having already done one SRAM Hydro RD install with my Red 22 group, this one was pretty straightforward, but it’s still time consuming. Drivetrain set up is much quicker and pretty standard, too. Overall, the included instructions and videos get you 95% of the way there, the rest is common sense and personal preference.

I used the amazing BB Infinite PFBB30 bottom bracket for this install, which will be featured in a separate review.

Stay tuned for first impressions of the CX1 group from the muddy finals of the AVLCX ’14 series!

SRAM.com

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22 Comments
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Rico
Rico
9 years ago

Woah that derailleur looks stretched to the max in the top photo, short chain? Maybe the camera angle. Looks like a fun bike!

satisFACTORYrider
satisFACTORYrider
9 years ago

would be cool to try. would love to see those lever bodies with a different aesthetic after a season or two

barfly
barfly
9 years ago

Nice ride!

Dork
Dork
9 years ago

Don’t forget to have some DOT grease on hand for those hose compression fittings, whenever you’re resizing!

ryanthelyon
ryanthelyon
9 years ago

When can we expect the BB Infinite review? I’ve been considering ordering one but theres not a lot of 1st hand information on them yet online. Can’t wait to hear your thoughts!

Jeb
Jeb
9 years ago

The pros on Telenet- Fidea are already starting to run chain guides on CX-1 to keep the chains from dropping, awesome. It’s heavier and more expensive than the old style 1x but at least it works the same. [rolleyes]

Stainless
Stainless
9 years ago

Jeb-I know that sense of humour! Curious if the Fidea guys are constructing their chain guides out of bent pieces of hose clamp.

Pablo
Pablo
9 years ago

The pros at Telenet-Fidea are pros, they have pro mechanics that know that adding a bit of extra security when racing pro is more important than saving a few grams. Us freds are fine.

Thank you for the review Tyler.

Castor/Pollux
Castor/Pollux
9 years ago

As Jeb said, just 2 big races done in the Belgium CX season, and already there’s been more then 10 dropped chains with those who are using CX1 group and proper hard courses are yet to come.
Double rings and chain guides are coming back big time !

ifbikes
ifbikes
9 years ago

I’ve been using the ghetto CX1 before CX1 existed: rival shifter, X9 w clutch, Wolf Tooth 42 and XT 11-36. I’ve never had a chain retention problem in 2 seasons of CX racing and lots of gravel riding. I see no need to move to CX1 (my wheels can’t take 11spd). But I really like the wide range of the 11-36, perfect for gravel adventures. It’s much wider than I need for racing, but I think CX1’s flaw is being limited to 11-32, even if you could fit an 11-36, they don’t make an 11 spd 11-36. If you’re still 10 spd, get an old X9 rd.

ifbikes
ifbikes
9 years ago

The one slight perk that CX1 has is road bike optimized cable routing, but its only better or some bikes. And CX1 has a barrel adjuster at the derailleur, but I just made my own derailleur adjuster by using this: http://jagwire.com/products/v/Rocket_Adjusters

Matt
Matt
9 years ago

Why is there no xx1 style driver to allow
a 10-32 cassette or even a 10-36?

THAT GUY
THAT GUY
9 years ago

@Matt

Because they don’t make those cassettes because there’s no point. 11-36 or 11-40 would give near the exact same ratio spread. So they should make those.

wheelz
wheelz
9 years ago

@Matt: I agree, but I’d like to see the option of 10-44, just like the XX1. Then the CX1 could be used for both CX racing and big adventure rides.

Matt
Matt
9 years ago

@that guy

well with that philosophy then xx1 should just be an 11-48? instead of 10-42?
the point is the driver already exists so why not make use of it for cx1

greg
greg
9 years ago

The limit is the large cog. Shouldn’t go to a 10tooth if you can instead go larger on the other end (and adjust ring size to compensate). 10tooth is inefficient, a band-aid.

Jeb
Jeb
9 years ago

I can’t believe people would even consider cx-1 for anything but racing. To have useable gearing for general riding you end up huge gaps in gearing. This is the number one complaint I hear from guys running xx-1 on the mtb and its gotta be magnified on a cross bike. Put a front derailleur on your bike ffs.

tank
tank
9 years ago

Add four links? CX1 instructions (included with either the derailleur or chainring) illustrate 3… 2.5 plus powerlock. It’d be nice if SRAM specifically codified the number of links.

Samwise
Samwise
9 years ago

Didn’t notice that the green bit on the derailleur was a protective film, eh?

Mindless
Mindless
9 years ago

Jeb, MTFU. 11-36, or at most 11-40 is enough gearing for everybody.

Andrew
Andrew
9 years ago

I installed a CX1 Today in place of a FSA Gossamer double ring on my Boardman CX Team. I have a query if anybody can help?

Non drive side has a 5mm spacer then the preload adjuster. Installed as it came out of the box. Drive side i used the 10mm spacer & cranked it all up. Adjusted the preload and there is now a gap of about 2mm on the non drive side, seemingly making this 5mm spacer redundant. 68mm shell BB running an FSA PF30 BB.

Have I missed something? No side to side play & equal distance from crank arm inner to inner of chain stay.

Appreciate any help?
Thanks

biker
biker
8 years ago

put a pressfit BB on a cross bike.. kk

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