Pro Gold Chain Shine chain cleaner (2)

Need to clean your chain but don’t want to have to remove the chain or invest in a chain cleaning machine? With ProGold’s new Biodegradable citrus based Chain Shine, all you have to do is use a brush to “paint” it on the chain, let it sit, give it a little scrub and hose off. It really is that easy according to the pro mechanics using Chain Shine, and at $12 a bottle it’s not too hard on the wallet either.

Pro Gold Chain Shine chain cleaner (4) Pro Gold Chain Shine chain cleaner (3)

ProGold is also offering new POP kits for retailers which includes products like their ProLink chain lube and Helmet Cleaner and Deodorizer. ProGold is also still offering their limited edition Rebecca Rusch Xtreme Chain lube with MFR technology made for long distance, all terrain riding.


  1. At our shop we use Dumonde Tech Citrus degreaser for that type of work.

    If it turns out being half as good as dumonde tech, its a good product.

  2. I never understand degreasers. Are you just supposed to wash the oil on the chain/drivetrain down the drain? The degreasers never give directions on how you are supposed to dispose of the oil in the bio-degradeable degreaser.

  3. I respectfully disagree with Ajax, in spite of his impressive, albeit mythological, pedigree. The Park Cyclone Chain Scrubber can clean a chain absolutely 100%. The trick is to run it with a chain holder, not with a wheel and cassette, and to clean the chainrings simultaneously with the chain, using a toothbrush or similar. Doing this eliminates having dirt continuously transfer from dirty cogs or chainrings onto the chain that the scrubber is attempting to clean.

    The second trick is to flush and replace the solvent in the scrubber repeatedly as it becomes dirty. I’m not sure about ProGold’s solvent, but with plain ol’ Simple Green, the solvent will foam as the scrubber’s brushes stir it up. This will eventually penetrate inside the links, flushing out the contaminants. Additionally, the scrubber’s brushes will clean thoroughly and systematically the inside surfaces of the chain plates, which is very difficult to accomplish either by cleaning a chain “pro style” on the bike, or with the chain removed. This will also clean the concave portions of the chainrings as you go, particularly if you shift occasionally from one ring to the other as you run the scrubber. The solvent on the chain will also clean the derailleur pulleys as you go.

    You can prove the effectiveness of this method to yourself by running the Park scrubber with nothing but clean water, once you have thoroughly cleaned the chain with solvent (depending on how dirty the drivetrain was to start, this may require multiple cycles of rinsing the scrubber and reloading it with fresh solvent) and rinsed it. The plain H2O will stay clean after running the chain through it. You can quite literally eat off the chain, if your table manners somehow justify the exercise.

  4. To Larry Falk’s point. I don’t know of any perfect solution to the environmental concerns, but there are at least ways to mitigate the impact. First, consider oils such as Pedro’s Chainj or Go! These are biodegradable vegetable oils–canola, I believe. They work well, although they are “wet” lubes, so they will attract dirt and Jersey Shore types. Second, use a biodegradable solvent, such as the citrus products widely available, or (again) plain ol’ Simple Green.

    I’m not a biologist (although I played one last night in a dream I’d rather not get into here…), so I can’t speak to the impact these products could have on vegetation, pH balances in the soil and water, etc. But they’re bound to be far safer than the old Euro standby of diesel oil rinsing off petroleum-derived lubricants.

  5. +1 to MrShinyDrivetrain

    I would add that the best quick degreaser is the Finishline Speed Clean, but its expensive. Other than that I use a degreaser from my local hardware which is about 8 bucks for 4 ltrs!

  6. i use citrus based degreaser and put it in a chain cleaning tool thing with a tissue on top (because else your frame is going to be black real quick). im sure it works ok with just a tissue as with this progold product, but the chain cleaning tool is quite a time saver.

    i dont replace the degreaser when it gets black that doesnt change anything really. it works extremely well.

    i also do clean the cogs and front ring with a tooth brush and the cassette with a sponge – otherwise the chain will catch the grease from there obviously.

    the whole cleaning takes about 10min and require removing the rear wheel for the cassette cleaning

    i then wash the whole thing with clear water, let it dry and use dry teflon lube (ONLY ON THE CHAIN) and wipe excess as i apply it

    again i let it sit then ride.

    the dry telfon lube definitely does NOT catch dirt at all and it works for quite a long time

    these methods will never be as thorough as removing the chain but its pretty damn close and way quicker

  7. You all are working way too hard. I have not had to “degrease” my chain in years because I don’t let it go long enough to get greasy. Simply apply Pro Link liberally once a month and clean off all the excess. Takes off the dirt and lubes beautifully. This whole, “paint on, hose off” thing, seems a bit unnecessary and messy. Before you go all turbo grouch on me, I ride road and mountain, and between 9 bikes, I could lick any one of those chains because they are that clean. Not trying to stir the pot here, just saying, give it a try, and keep using Pro Gold products because they rock.

  8. To really clean a chain – II
    Remove the chain and use an ultrasonic cleaner with your choice of something green [Dr. Brommer’s soap and water works great], change out the solution until it’s clear, blow dry and/or bake in the sun/oven. You can get relatively cheap ultrasonic cleaners that are used to clean jewelery. IMHO, when you use a degreaser, you have to totally remove the degreaser. Otherwise, the chain lube that is applied after the degreasing… gets degreased.

What do you think?